Graduation cake

Graduation cake
My graduation cake: a suitcase and two books. Very fitting....

28.11.10

The Limitations of Language

One of the hardest things about writing a blog about these wonderful experiences is that it's so hard to articulate just exactly what I see, hear, smell, taste, etc.  For example, trying to describe the beauty and intricacy of a Buddhist wat (temple) is like trying to squeeze a million descriptions into one sentence.  I have neither the time nor the space to go into such elaborate depictions, but I will share a few words that come to mind when I think of the things I've experienced so far:

Graceful; talented; ouch!

Silly.

Adventurous.

Something I've longed to see in person; jaw-dropping.

Awe-inspiring; mighty.

Gigantic; crowded; wow.

Breathtaking; like something on a postcard.

Moving.

Joyful; lovely.

Precious.

Regal; vibrant.

Unique.

Interesting; beautiful; one of my favorite pieces of architecture.

Learning.

Majestic.

Delicious; fresh; worth a long journey.


Excited; observing the culture.

Magical.

I've been fortunate enough to have experienced some great things since I've been in Thailand.  For one, I saw Wat Arun, the "Temple of Dawn" :




These stairs were incredibly steep and very big!

Wat Pho, and the Reclining Buddha:

It's massive.

A cup full of coins for the buckets ------------------^





Beautiful architecture at Wat Pho.





Wat Phra Kaew at the Grand Palace:










The annual Loy Krathong festival, celebrated every twelfth lunar month on the full moon:


My krathong, which consists of candles and incense in a "boat" made of flowers and banana leaves.

Me with my krathong.

Krathongs floating on the lake at Lumphini Park.  They're supposed to bring you luck for the new year.
In addition, to help you all better understand the hustle and bustle of Bangkok life, and so that you may better experience some of these wonderful things, I took the liberty of making a few videos around town.  However, for lack of time (it's already 3am here, and I have to wake up and deal with the Swiss tomorrow; long story) and because, after about 15-20 minutes not even one of my videos would upload, I've decided to hit the hay and attempt to publish them tomorrow, when my computer hopefully won't be so fickle :P



~SB

11.11.10

Sensory Overload in a Concrete Jungle

I asked my friend Tabitha what word or phrase came to mind when she thought of Bangkok.  She chose "a concrete jungle."  If you were to ask me, my response would vary: "madness"; "pure, unadulterated chaos"; "narrow sidewalks"; "humidity"; "giant mega shopping malls"; "friendliness"; "a gastronomic revolution"; "an eye-opener."

Really, though, "sensory overload" seems to be the expression I hear used most often by members of my cohort.  I knew before I came to Thailand that it would be a totally different experience from anything I had previously known.  However, I didn't know just how wonderful and exciting the city would be.

From the very first day here, Bangkok exceeded all the expectations I had (though I tried not to go in with many because I like to keep an open mind).  I was by no means a sheltered child, but I was nonetheless a child of suburbia, raised in a culture that tends to fear other cultures.  Typically, when one thinks of visiting a place like Thailand or Cambodia, they may think of poverty, danger, human rights violations, people who kill tourists for money or vengeance (or at least, though they'd never admit it, that's what my parents seem to think of when they consider southeast Asia :P ).  A lot of people might think of Bangkok as a nice place to visit in theory, but they wouldn't actually be brave enough to step outside of their shell and go there.

I'll admit, despite my many travels abroad and my love of learning about new cultures, I was a bit nervous at first; it was totally outside my normal comfort zone.  But after almost four weeks here in Bangkok, I'm certain that coming here was one of the best decisions I've ever made.

First of all, Thailand is called "the land of a thousand smiles" for a reason.  Everyone here is very welcoming and open, no matter your nationality.  This is a HUGE change from Vienna, where most people were rather cold and brusque.

Also, the food here is phenomenal, and you can buy it right off the street.  It's made right in front of you; you can see all the ingredients they add (though you might not know what they are).  A regular street-fare meal costs around 30 Baht, which is roughly $1.  That means if you stuck to the three-meals-a-day model, you could eat delicious food everyday for only $3.  And no, it's not typical American street fare, either.  Thais use a variety of ingredients like fresh vegetables, fruits, meat (usually chicken or pork), and eggs, served with noodles or, more commonly, rice.  They add lots of wonderful spices, though they go easy on foreigners and never actually make food "spicy" unless you specifically ask (thank goodness!).

There's actually a little alleyway next to our hotel where vendors sell different plates of food throughout the day.  At first glance it looks like a grungy, impoverished spot, but then you see local businessmen in their suits, employees on their lunch break, and other local Thais eating there and you realize it's just a nice, out of the way place for people to grab a quick bite and have good conversation.  I've eaten there a few times, and I can honestly say that so far it's been my favorite food here.

Vendors selling street food at Pratunam market.

Exotic fruit.

Another street vendor at Pratunam market.

My usual noodle bowl from a local street food vendor.

Bon appetit!

The alley by the hotel where I go for good eats and people-watching.

The city itself is indescribable.  A tourist could stay here for a week and not experience anything "foreign" or Thai.  There is an abundance of Starbucks, 7-11, 24-hour McDonald's, pizza parlors, Burger Kings, etc.  The malls here are ridiculously huge; Centralworld is at least seven stories and stretches on for almost a block.  Any movie you see has English subtitles, and most signs are written in English.

However, despite it's Westernization, Bangkok is undeniably Thai.  Buddhist monks ride alongside you on the BTS.  Every meal is served with either a fork and spoon or a spoon and chopsticks - never with a knife.  Everyone stands for the national anthem, which they play before every movie (yes, even foreigners are required to stand; not doing so is considered extremely disrespectful).  Pictures of the King are found throughout the city on fences, on billboards, on monuments, etc.  Vendors haggle and perfect their magical art of persuasion in every market.

It's a city of contradiction: tradition and modernity; huge buildings and tiny shops; Buddhist temples and 7-11s; Thais and ex-patriates; East and West.  But it is always "the land of a thousand smiles," and I appreciate and enjoy the local culture more and more every day.

View of Bangkok from the 14th floor of the hotel.

Walking down Khao San road.

Fruit stand.

I bought those two flowers from a little girl on Khao San.

The little girl and me on Khao San. She was awesome =)

River cruise boat.

Buildings along the river at night.

Traditional Thai dancer.  

A "monkey," a sort of prankster in Thai culture.

Another lovely Thai dancer.

A katoy, or "lady boy."

A main street of Pratunam market. 

Inside Platinum Mall.

The many, many levels of Platinum Mall.

Sawasdee House, a popular meeting place/backpacker's retreat.

Gorgeous, intricate lamps for sale.

A traditional pad thai stand near Khao San.

A portrait of the King and Queen.

A crowded food tent at Chatuchak market.

Soi Cowboy, a "red light district" of Bangkok.

Eating a cricket!

More to come as I continue to live and learn in this crazy, humid, delicious concrete jungle!